What it is, what to see and when to go.
Hampstead is a hilltop village in north London that the city swallowed without changing much. Georgian lanes and alleys climb from Hampstead High Street, and beyond them lies Hampstead Heath, 320 hectares of open grassland, ponds and woods with views across London. The village has been home to poets, painters and psychoanalysts, and several of their houses are open to visitors. Expect hills.
Start in the village. Flask Walk leads to Burgh House, a 1704 house with a free local museum. Church Row is one of London's finest Georgian streets and ends at St John-at-Hampstead, where John Constable is buried. Up the hill, Fenton House and Garden is a 17th-century merchant's house with early keyboard instruments, and The Holly Bush is a snug old pub on Holly Mount.
At the top, Whitestone Pond marks one of the highest points in London, and the Hill Garden and Pergola is a raised Edwardian walkway on the Heath's west side. Downhill are the writers and thinkers: Keats House, where he wrote 'Ode to a Nightingale'; the Freud Museum London, with the famous couch; Ernő Goldfinger's modernist 2 Willow Road; the 1934 Isokon Flats; and the free Camden Art Centre.
When to go: spring to autumn. 2 Willow Road and Fenton House are seasonal and closed in winter. Keats House, Burgh House and the Freud Museum close on Mondays and Tuesdays. In winter, the Hampstead Observatory by Whitestone Pond opens on clear Friday and Saturday nights from October to April. Stations: Hampstead and Belsize Park (Northern line), Hampstead Heath and Finchley Road & Frognal (Overground), Finchley Road (Jubilee and Metropolitan lines) for the Freud Museum.
Writers' houses, a heath and Georgian lanes, ranked.

Rolling meadows, tangled woods and swimming ponds sprawl so far that on the high ground you only remember London when the skyline appears below.
2The Regency villa where John Keats lived, fell in love with Fanny Brawne and wrote his best-known odes. Small and atmospheric, it has a garden…
3A 1704 Queen Anne house holding the free Hampstead Museum of local history. Its walled garden and café make it a calm stop off the High Street.
4A 17th-century merchant's house with early keyboard instruments, porcelain and a walled garden with an orchard. It sits in one of Hampstead's…
5A free contemporary art gallery in a former Victorian public library near Finchley Road. A good bookshop, café and quiet garden make it worth the…
6A Grade II-listed pub in the former stables of Romney's House, hidden up a hillside lane. Its historic multi-room interior is rated by CAMRA and…
7A pond and flagstaff at the top of Heath Street, one of inner London's highest points and the site of an Armada beacon. It is the gateway to…
8A volunteer-run Victorian telescope on London's highest point that lets anyone look at the Moon and planets for free. It opens only on clear…
9Wisteria-draped Edwardian walkway on the edge of Hampstead Heath. Most walkers on the Heath walk straight past it without knowing.
10Ernő Goldfinger's 1939 modernist home, still filled with his furniture and art collection. It is the best way to see how modern architecture was…
The Heath, the Hill Garden, Burgh House and Camden Art Centre are free.

A narrow pedestrian lane of small shops and old cottages that once led to Hampstead's spa wells. It is the most picturesque walk off the High Street.

An almost intact early-18th-century street of listed Georgian terraces, seen from outside. Pevsner called it the best street in Hampstead, and the…

Hampstead's Georgian parish church closes the view at the end of Church Row. Its leafy, sloping churchyard holds the graves of painter John…

Hampstead's hilltop village centre, with Georgian and Victorian shopfronts, lanes and cafés. It is the starting point for walks to the Heath and…

Walk along Lawn Road in Belsize Park and take in a reinforced-concrete block of 36 flats designed by Wells Coates for Molly and Jack Pritchard.…
A handful of small hotels and B&Bs in a quiet, leafy village 20 minutes by Tube from central London. See hotels on a map with live prices.
Museums, landmarks and hidden gems on one map, plus 17 day trips.