What it is, what to see and when to go.
Chelsea is the stretch of west London between Sloane Square and the Thames, and it splits neatly in two. The King's Road runs east to west as the shopping spine, birthplace of the Swinging Sixties and of punk. South of it, quiet streets of brick terraces lead down to Cheyne Walk and the river, where writers and painters have lived for three centuries. Everything here is walkable in an afternoon.
Start at Duke of York Square, just off Sloane Square, where the Saatchi Gallery fills a former army headquarters with contemporary art; most shows are free. Walk south to the Royal Hospital Chelsea, Christopher Wren's home for army veterans, the Chelsea Pensioners in their scarlet coats. Next door, the National Army Museum tells the story of the British soldier, also free.
Along Royal Hospital Road, the walled Chelsea Physic Garden has grown medicinal plants since 1673 and is one of London's oldest botanic gardens. Further west on the Embankment, the gilded Statue of Sir Thomas More sits outside Chelsea Old Church, where he worshipped. Round the corner is The Carlyles' House, the Victorian home of Thomas and Jane Carlyle, and The Cross Keys, a pub dating from 1708.
When to go: a dry weekday from spring to autumn. The Physic Garden is closed on Saturdays, and the Carlyles' House opens only on Wednesdays in season, with timed tickets booked ahead. In late May the Chelsea Flower Show takes over the Royal Hospital grounds and the area fills up. Stations: Sloane Square (District and Circle lines) for the King's Road and the Royal Hospital; the riverside end is a 15-minute walk.
Gardens, galleries and riverside houses, ranked.

Step through high brick walls into a four-acre garden where medicinal plants share warm beds with Mediterranean rock plants. Spot an olive tree…
2A major contemporary art gallery set in the Duke of York's former military headquarters on the King's Road. Big white rooms, bold shows and…
3A car-free piazza off the King's Road, lined with boutiques and cafés beside the Saatchi Gallery. Come on a Saturday, when the Fine Food Market…
4A free museum telling the British Army's story from the Civil War and Waterloo to modern conflicts, with uniforms, weapons and personal stories.…
5The Chelsea townhouse of Victorian writer Thomas Carlyle and his wife Jane, kept almost exactly as they lived in it. It is a rare, intimate look…
6A riverside church where Sir Thomas More worshipped, rebuilt after 1941 bombs destroyed all but his chapel. Inside are Tudor monuments that…
7A riverside row of Georgian houses, seen from the street, once home to Turner, Rossetti, George Eliot, Whistler and Mick Jagger. Blue plaques make…
8Chelsea's oldest pub, dating from 1708, where Turner, Whistler, Dylan Thomas and the Rolling Stones all drank. Freshly refurbished, it makes a…
9A seated bronze of Sir Thomas More with a gilded face and hands, outside Chelsea Old Church on Cheyne Walk. It marks the riverside where the Tudor…
10Chelsea's main street began as Charles II's private road to Kew and became the catwalk of the Swinging Sixties and punk. Today it is a long,…
Expensive, safe and quiet at night, with small boutique hotels rather than big chains. See hotels on a map with live prices.
Museums, landmarks and hidden gems on one map, plus 17 day trips.